walkabout-japan

Day 18
Sake in the morning - don't worry, be happy
GPS: N 32 °, 50. 573 ' E 131 °, 43.066 '
Place: Shigeoka
Etmal: 21 km
Total: 407 km
I have spent the night nearby a temple in the dark forest where at 4 a.m. the Kami (ghosts) of the Yamabushi (mountain warriors) made a lot of cawing; I guess it's rather a barn owl… Well anyway, when I am coming back out of the forest at 6.30 a.m. (morning routine), I meet a tiny grey priest shuffling from the other side of the forest. We are both completely stunned. Here we are standing vis-à-vis: me with terribly coloured free-climber trousers, my hairs standing on end and a roll of toilet paper in my hand, and him wearing traditional clothes (Hakama) and holding a bag. I explain myself, he grins, opens his bag and pours 0.2 l of sake in a paper cup (Wow - sake is very good against coldness!), then he drags me (my head is already swimming) in the temple where I am attending at his ceremony. Afterwards I invite him to come into my tent and have a cup of hot green tea which he's slurping with thanks. After this morning, I take a long brunch in the next noodle shop (8.30 a.m.). I order noodles, but as I haven't had enough, I am just going to ask for two Onigiri (like nut triangles but only with rice), when the waitress gives me two Onigiri. That's service! After these two have disappeared in my stomach, I am longing for a coffee, but without saying a word there's already the chef with a fresh-roasted coffee for me. I am somewhat irritated and looking down and smelling discreetly under my arms, humph, but there's nothing. So what? I ask for one more Bento (packed lunch) and want to pay. The answer is: " 0, - ¥, it's for free!" I am really impressed and thanking them with 1,000 bows I leave the shop. Maybe I should begin every morning with sake and prayer...


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